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On the probability of wave breaking in deep waters

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dc.contributor.author Papadimitrakis, YA en
dc.date.accessioned 2014-03-01T02:43:26Z
dc.date.available 2014-03-01T02:43:26Z
dc.date.issued 2005 en
dc.identifier.issn 0967-0645 en
dc.identifier.uri http://hdl.handle.net/123456789/31415
dc.subject Deep Water en
dc.subject Fluid Mechanics en
dc.subject Probability Density en
dc.subject Spectrum en
dc.subject Wave Breaking en
dc.subject Weak Dependence en
dc.subject.classification Oceanography en
dc.subject.other Bandwidth en
dc.subject.other Fluid mechanics en
dc.subject.other Frequencies en
dc.subject.other Probability density function en
dc.subject.other Water waves en
dc.subject.other Breaking waves en
dc.subject.other Deep waters en
dc.subject.other Spectrum bandwidth en
dc.subject.other Wave frequencies en
dc.subject.other Water en
dc.subject.other breaking wave en
dc.subject.other deep water en
dc.subject.other wave action en
dc.title On the probability of wave breaking in deep waters en
heal.type conferenceItem en
heal.identifier.primary 10.1016/j.dsr2.2005.01.009 en
heal.identifier.secondary http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.dsr2.2005.01.009 en
heal.language English en
heal.publicationDate 2005 en
heal.abstract An analytical expression for the spectral probability density p(B)(Sigma) of breaking waves in deep water, with or without swell, is derived on the basis of a joint distribution of wave frequencies and amplitudes, and a modified Banner and Phillips [1974. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 66, 625-640] breaking criterion. The joint probability density and the derived marginal amplitude, frequency and conditional densities, when normalized properly, all show (within the proper spectral bandwidth range) similarities with other pertinent distributions. The derived breaking probability is found to depend on the spectrum bandwidth, theta, and consequently on the significant slope, , and/or the wave age, c(p)/u(*) and is not restricted to narrow-band seas. The variation of breaking probability, with, at the normalized spectral peak frequency 2:p has no direct dependence on c(p)/u(*), whereas its counterpart variations at frequencies 2 Sigma(p), and 2.5 Sigma(p) both show weak dependence on the latter parameter for large values of wave age (representing mature wave fields), in accord with field observations. An overall (average) breaking probability, B, characterizing the wave field (locally) also is derived and compared with counterpart-published expressions, and their similarities and differences are properly discussed. (c) 2005 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved. en
heal.publisher PERGAMON-ELSEVIER SCIENCE LTD en
heal.journalName Deep-Sea Research Part II: Topical Studies in Oceanography en
dc.identifier.doi 10.1016/j.dsr2.2005.01.009 en
dc.identifier.isi ISI:000230417700012 en
dc.identifier.volume 52 en
dc.identifier.issue 9-10 SPEC. ISS. en
dc.identifier.spage 1246 en
dc.identifier.epage 1269 en


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