Field measurements of wave directionality in water of finite depth

Memos, C; Ziros, A

dc.contributor.author	Memos, C	en
dc.contributor.author	Ziros, A	en
dc.date.accessioned	2014-03-01T01:52:58Z
dc.date.available	2014-03-01T01:52:58Z
dc.date.issued	2003	en
dc.identifier.issn	1598141X	en
dc.identifier.uri	https://dspace.lib.ntua.gr/xmlui/handle/123456789/26806
dc.relation.uri	http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?eid=2-s2.0-1342331788&partnerID=40&md5=526b9ffcd18dd251e70486e947071cd8	en
dc.subject	Energy spread	en
dc.subject	Transitional water	en
dc.subject	Wave directionality	en
dc.subject.other	water depth	en
dc.subject.other	wave direction	en
dc.subject.other	wave modeling	en
dc.subject.other	wave-wave interaction	en
dc.title	Field measurements of wave directionality in water of finite depth	en
heal.type	journalArticle	en
heal.publicationDate	2003	en
heal.abstract	Field measurements of directional waves were carried out during the summer of 2002 at two coastal sites in water of finite depth. A couple of general purpose instruments were used employing acoustic Doppler technology. The aim of the study was to investigate the spatial behavior of the directional movement of waves as they come ashore. In total, 74 tests were carried out during which sea states of low to moderate intensity were recorded. A great number of these runs displayed bimodal characteristics of the spreading function at high frequencies. It was found that in general, the frequency-integrated directional width tends to broaden as the water shoals and when refraction effects are negligible. This is attributed to wave-wave interactions that become pronounced in shallow water. The same directional width showed, also, a tendency to increase with increasing peak frequency of the sea state spectrum. The behavior of the kurtosis of the spreading function was also examined. It was found that for higher frequencies this index tends to increase in wave spectra above a certain sea severity threshold.	en
heal.journalName	Ocean and Polar Research	en
dc.identifier.volume	25	en
dc.identifier.issue	4	en
dc.identifier.spage	437	en
dc.identifier.epage	446	en