Irregular wave transformation in the nearshore zone: Experimental investigations and comparison with a higher order Boussinesq model

Memos, CD; Karambas, ThV; Avgeris, I

dc.contributor.author	Memos, CD	en
dc.contributor.author	Karambas, ThV	en
dc.contributor.author	Avgeris, I	en
dc.date.accessioned	2014-03-01T01:22:32Z
dc.date.available	2014-03-01T01:22:32Z
dc.date.issued	2005	en
dc.identifier.issn	0029-8018	en
dc.identifier.uri	https://dspace.lib.ntua.gr/xmlui/handle/123456789/16612
dc.subject	Boussinesq-type models	en
dc.subject	Nearshore zone	en
dc.subject	Wave transformation	en
dc.subject.classification	Engineering, Civil	en
dc.subject.classification	Engineering, Ocean	en
dc.subject.classification	Oceanography	en
dc.subject.classification	Water Resources	en
dc.subject.other	Boundary conditions	en
dc.subject.other	Damping	en
dc.subject.other	Energy dissipation	en
dc.subject.other	Mathematical models	en
dc.subject.other	Nonlinear equations	en
dc.subject.other	Refraction	en
dc.subject.other	Boussinesq-type equations	en
dc.subject.other	Computational domain	en
dc.subject.other	Wave transformations	en
dc.subject.other	Wave propagation	en
dc.subject.other	breaking wave	en
dc.title	Irregular wave transformation in the nearshore zone: Experimental investigations and comparison with a higher order Boussinesq model	en
heal.type	journalArticle	en
heal.identifier.primary	10.1016/j.oceaneng.2004.09.009	en
heal.identifier.secondary	http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2004.09.009	en
heal.language	English	en
heal.publicationDate	2005	en
heal.abstract	A non-linear wave propagation model, based on the higher order depth-integrated Boussinesq-type equations for breaking and non-breaking waves, was applied to predict irregular wave transformation in two horizontal dimensions. A new source function, adapted for the proposed equations, is introduced inside the computational domain, to generate the desired short-crested waves. The dissipation due to the roller is introduced in the momentum equation in order to simulate wave breaking. Bottom friction and sub-grid turbulent processes are also introduced in the model. At the open boundaries a damping layer is applied together with a radiation boundary condition. Model results are compared with experimental measurements, containing tests with normal or oblique to the shore long- and short-crested irregular waves. The comparisons show that the model is able to simulate successfully the non-linear evolution of a unidirectional or a multidirectional wave filed in the nearshore zone, under the effects of refraction, shoaling, and breaking. (c) 2005 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.	en
heal.publisher	PERGAMON-ELSEVIER SCIENCE LTD	en
heal.journalName	Ocean Engineering	en
dc.identifier.doi	10.1016/j.oceaneng.2004.09.009	en
dc.identifier.isi	ISI:000229661500011	en
dc.identifier.volume	32	en
dc.identifier.issue	11-12	en
dc.identifier.spage	1465	en
dc.identifier.epage	1485	en