Boussinesq model for weakly nonlinear fully dispersive water waves

Karambas, TV; Memos, CD

dc.contributor.author	Karambas, TV	en
dc.contributor.author	Memos, CD	en
dc.date.accessioned	2014-03-01T01:29:57Z
dc.date.available	2014-03-01T01:29:57Z
dc.date.issued	2009	en
dc.identifier.issn	0733-950X	en
dc.identifier.uri	https://dspace.lib.ntua.gr/xmlui/handle/123456789/19412
dc.subject	Boussinesq equations	en
dc.subject	Fourier analysis	en
dc.subject	Numerical models	en
dc.subject	Water waves	en
dc.subject.classification	Engineering, Civil	en
dc.subject.classification	Engineering, Ocean	en
dc.subject.classification	Water Resources	en
dc.subject.other	Boussinesq	en
dc.subject.other	Boussinesq equations	en
dc.subject.other	Boussinesq model	en
dc.subject.other	Convolution integrals	en
dc.subject.other	Dispersive waves	en
dc.subject.other	Experimental data	en
dc.subject.other	Explicit scheme	en
dc.subject.other	Finite difference	en
dc.subject.other	Free surface elevations	en
dc.subject.other	Horizontal velocity	en
dc.subject.other	Impulse function	en
dc.subject.other	Irregular waves	en
dc.subject.other	Momentum equation	en
dc.subject.other	Nonlinear dispersive wave propagation	en
dc.subject.other	Nonlinear waves	en
dc.subject.other	Numerical integrations	en
dc.subject.other	Numerical models	en
dc.subject.other	Numerical solution	en
dc.subject.other	One frequency	en
dc.subject.other	Shallow waters	en
dc.subject.other	Sloping beaches	en
dc.subject.other	System of equations	en
dc.subject.other	Water depth	en
dc.subject.other	Convolution	en
dc.subject.other	Fourier analysis	en
dc.subject.other	Hydrodynamics	en
dc.subject.other	Numerical methods	en
dc.subject.other	Two dimensional	en
dc.subject.other	Water waves	en
dc.subject.other	Wave propagation	en
dc.subject.other	Water analysis	en
dc.subject.other	Boussinesq equation	en
dc.subject.other	computer simulation	en
dc.subject.other	experimental study	en
dc.subject.other	finite difference method	en
dc.subject.other	free surface flow	en
dc.subject.other	nonlinearity	en
dc.subject.other	numerical model	en
dc.subject.other	theoretical study	en
dc.subject.other	water depth	en
dc.subject.other	water wave	en
dc.subject.other	wave dispersion	en
dc.subject.other	wave equation	en
dc.subject.other	wave propagation	en
dc.subject.other	wave velocity	en
dc.title	Boussinesq model for weakly nonlinear fully dispersive water waves	en
heal.type	journalArticle	en
heal.identifier.primary	10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(2009)135:5(187)	en
heal.identifier.secondary	http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(2009)135:5(187)	en
heal.language	English	en
heal.publicationDate	2009	en
heal.abstract	In the present work a new Boussinesq dispersive wave propagation model is proposed. The model is based on a system of equations expressed in terms of the free-surface elevation and the depth-averaged horizontal velocities. The approach is developed for fully dispersive and weakly nonlinear irregular waves propagating over any constant water depth in two horizontal dimensions, but it can also be applied in mildly sloping beaches with considerable accuracy. The model in its two-dimensional formulation involves in total five terms in each momentum equation, including the classical shallow water terms and only one frequency dispersion term. The latter is expressed through convolution integrals, which are estimated using appropriate impulse functions. The formulation is fully explicit in space and thus no inversion is required for the numerical solution. The model is applied to simulate the propagation of regular and irregular waves using a simple explicit scheme of finite differences. Numerical integration of a convolution integral is also required. The results of the simulations are compared with experimental data, as well as with linear and nonlinear wave theory. The comparisons show that the method is capable of simulating weakly nonlinear dispersive wave propagation over finite constant or slowly diminishing water depth in a satisfactory way. © 2009 ASCE.	en
heal.publisher	ASCE-AMER SOC CIVIL ENGINEERS	en
heal.journalName	Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering	en
dc.identifier.doi	10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(2009)135:5(187)	en
dc.identifier.isi	ISI:000269061500001	en
dc.identifier.volume	135	en
dc.identifier.issue	5	en
dc.identifier.spage	187	en
dc.identifier.epage	199	en