Phytochemical analysis of young fustic (Cotinus coggygria heartwood) and identification of isolated colourants in historical textiles

Valianou, L; Stathopoulou, K; Karapanagiotis, I; Magiatis, P; Pavlidou, E; Skaltsounis, A-L; Chryssoulakis, Y

dc.contributor.author	Valianou, L	en
dc.contributor.author	Stathopoulou, K	en
dc.contributor.author	Karapanagiotis, I	en
dc.contributor.author	Magiatis, P	en
dc.contributor.author	Pavlidou, E	en
dc.contributor.author	Skaltsounis, A-L	en
dc.contributor.author	Chryssoulakis, Y	en
dc.date.accessioned	2014-03-01T01:31:40Z
dc.date.available	2014-03-01T01:31:40Z
dc.date.issued	2009	en
dc.identifier.issn	1618-2642	en
dc.identifier.uri	https://dspace.lib.ntua.gr/xmlui/handle/123456789/19872
dc.subject	Archeometry/fine arts	en
dc.subject	HPLC	en
dc.subject	Natural products	en
dc.subject	NMR/ESR	en
dc.subject.classification	Biochemical Research Methods	en
dc.subject.classification	Chemistry, Analytical	en
dc.subject.other	Anacardiaceae	en
dc.subject.other	Archeometry/fine arts	en
dc.subject.other	Cotinus coggygria	en
dc.subject.other	Degradation process	en
dc.subject.other	Diode array detectors	en
dc.subject.other	Dye components	en
dc.subject.other	Flavonoid	en
dc.subject.other	High-performance liquid chromatographies	en
dc.subject.other	HPLC	en
dc.subject.other	Isolated compounds	en
dc.subject.other	Isoliquiritigenin	en
dc.subject.other	Liquiritigenin	en
dc.subject.other	Methanol extracts	en
dc.subject.other	Natural products	en
dc.subject.other	NMR/ESR	en
dc.subject.other	Reference materials	en
dc.subject.other	Relative ratios	en
dc.subject.other	Silk fibres	en
dc.subject.other	Structure elucidations	en
dc.subject.other	Chromatographic analysis	en
dc.subject.other	Fatty acids	en
dc.subject.other	High performance liquid chromatography	en
dc.subject.other	High pressure liquid chromatography	en
dc.subject.other	Light emitting diodes	en
dc.subject.other	Magnetic resonance	en
dc.subject.other	Mass spectrometry	en
dc.subject.other	Methanol	en
dc.subject.other	Nuclear magnetic resonance	en
dc.subject.other	Phenols	en
dc.subject.other	Scanning electron microscopy	en
dc.subject.other	Silk	en
dc.subject.other	Textile finishing	en
dc.subject.other	Wood products	en
dc.subject.other	Extraction	en
dc.subject.other	coloring agent	en
dc.subject.other	plant extract	en
dc.subject.other	Anacardiaceae	en
dc.subject.other	article	en
dc.subject.other	chemistry	en
dc.subject.other	history	en
dc.subject.other	mass spectrometry	en
dc.subject.other	nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy	en
dc.subject.other	reproducibility	en
dc.subject.other	scanning electron microscopy	en
dc.subject.other	textile	en
dc.subject.other	time	en
dc.subject.other	Anacardiaceae	en
dc.subject.other	Coloring Agents	en
dc.subject.other	History, 15th Century	en
dc.subject.other	History, 16th Century	en
dc.subject.other	History, 17th Century	en
dc.subject.other	History, 18th Century	en
dc.subject.other	Magnetic Resonance Spectroscopy	en
dc.subject.other	Mass Spectrometry	en
dc.subject.other	Microscopy, Electron, Scanning	en
dc.subject.other	Plant Extracts	en
dc.subject.other	Reproducibility of Results	en
dc.subject.other	Textiles	en
dc.subject.other	Time Factors	en
dc.subject.other	Anacardiaceae	en
dc.subject.other	Cotinus coggygria	en
dc.subject.other	Pictetia aculeata	en
dc.title	Phytochemical analysis of young fustic (Cotinus coggygria heartwood) and identification of isolated colourants in historical textiles	en
heal.type	journalArticle	en
heal.identifier.primary	10.1007/s00216-009-2767-z	en
heal.identifier.secondary	http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s00216-009-2767-z	en
heal.language	English	en
heal.publicationDate	2009	en
heal.abstract	Young fustic (Cotinus coggygria Scop.; Anacardiaceae) has been used as a dyestuff since antiquity. Phytochemical investigation of the methanol extract of the heartwood has led to the isolation and structure elucidation by nuclear magnetic resonance and mass spectrometry (MS) of 3′,4′,6- trihydroxyaurone (sulfuretin) and 3′,4′,7-trihydroxyflavonol (fisetin) as well as 3′,4′,7-trihydroxyflavanol (fustin), 3′,4′,5,7-tetrahydroxyflavonol (quercetin), 3′,4′,5,7- tetrahydroxyflavanol (taxifolin), 4′,7-dihydroxyflavanol, 3′,4′,7-trihydroxyflavanone (butin), 4′,7-dihydroxyflavanone (liquiritigenin), trans-2′,3,4,4′-tetrahydroxychalcone (butein), 4′,5,7-trihydroxyflavanone and trans-2′,4,4′- trihydroxychalcone (isoliquiritigenin). The isolated compounds were used as reference materials for the development of a high-performance liquid chromatography-diode array detector-MS method, which was then applied to analyse (1) fresh silk samples dyed with young fustic, (2) dyed silk subjected to artificially accelerated light ageing and (3) historical silk micro-samples, extracted from ecclesiastical post-Byzantine garments (fifteenth to eighteenth century), which belong to monasteries of Mount Athos. Sulfuretin and fisetin, which are usually used as markers for the identification of the yellow dye and, for the first time, some of the aforementioned flavonoid components of young fustic were identified in the historical extracts. Furthermore, preliminary experiments suggested that although the amounts of the dye components decrease with light ageing, the relative ratio of fisetin and sulfuretin, after a first step of ageing, seems to be almost unaffected by such degradation processes raised by light. The effect of the latter on the morphology of the dyed silk fibres is briefly investigated by scanning electron microscopy. © 2009 Springer-Verlag.	en
heal.publisher	SPRINGER HEIDELBERG	en
heal.journalName	Analytical and Bioanalytical Chemistry	en
dc.identifier.doi	10.1007/s00216-009-2767-z	en
dc.identifier.isi	ISI:000265786900024	en
dc.identifier.volume	394	en
dc.identifier.issue	3	en
dc.identifier.spage	871	en
dc.identifier.epage	882	en