A Boussinesq-type model incorporating random wave-breaking

Chondros, MK; Koutsourelakis, IG; Memos, CD

dc.contributor.author	Chondros, MK	en
dc.contributor.author	Koutsourelakis, IG	en
dc.contributor.author	Memos, CD	en
dc.date.accessioned	2014-03-01T01:34:51Z
dc.date.available	2014-03-01T01:34:51Z
dc.date.issued	2011	en
dc.identifier.issn	0022-1686	en
dc.identifier.uri	https://dspace.lib.ntua.gr/xmlui/handle/123456789/20903
dc.subject	Boussinesq equation	en
dc.subject	eddy viscosity	en
dc.subject	MIKE21	en
dc.subject	numerical modelling	en
dc.subject	surface roller	en
dc.subject	wave-breaking	en
dc.subject.classification	Engineering, Civil	en
dc.subject.classification	Water Resources	en
dc.subject.other	Boussinesq equations	en
dc.subject.other	Eddy viscosity	en
dc.subject.other	MIKE-21	en
dc.subject.other	Numerical modelling	en
dc.subject.other	surface roller	en
dc.subject.other	Wavebreaking	en
dc.subject.other	Coastal engineering	en
dc.subject.other	Computer simulation	en
dc.subject.other	Dispersion (waves)	en
dc.subject.other	Equations of motion	en
dc.subject.other	Nonlinear equations	en
dc.subject.other	Water waves	en
dc.subject.other	Boussinesq equation	en
dc.subject.other	dispersion	en
dc.subject.other	numerical model	en
dc.subject.other	random wave	en
dc.subject.other	shallow water	en
dc.subject.other	water depth	en
dc.subject.other	wave breaking	en
dc.subject.other	wave modeling	en
dc.title	A Boussinesq-type model incorporating random wave-breaking	en
heal.type	journalArticle	en
heal.identifier.primary	10.1080/00221686.2011.571817	en
heal.identifier.secondary	http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00221686.2011.571817	en
heal.language	English	en
heal.publicationDate	2011	en
heal.abstract	A recent Boussinesq-type model is herein modified to account for breaking waves in shallow water. The model is based on a system of equations in terms of surface elevation and depth-averaged horizontal velocities, in two horizontal dimensions for fully dispersive and weakly nonlinear random waves over any finite water depth. The formulation involves five terms in each momentum equation, including the classical shallow-water equation terms, and only one frequency dispersion term. This work extends the model by including depth-induced wave-breaking in one horizontal dimension, based on the eddy viscosity and surface roller criteria. The modified model was applied to simulate the propagation and wave-breaking of regular and random waves using a simple explicit finite difference scheme. The simulation results were compared with experimental data and with results from one of the most widespread commercial Boussinesq wave models, indicating good agreement in most cases. © 2011 Copyright International Association for Hydro-Environment Engineering and Research.	en
heal.publisher	TAYLOR & FRANCIS LTD	en
heal.journalName	Journal of Hydraulic Research	en
dc.identifier.doi	10.1080/00221686.2011.571817	en
dc.identifier.isi	ISI:000294213700011	en
dc.identifier.volume	49	en
dc.identifier.issue	4	en
dc.identifier.spage	529	en
dc.identifier.epage	538	en