On the probability of wave breaking in deep waters

Papadimitrakis, YA

dc.contributor.author	Papadimitrakis, YA	en
dc.date.accessioned	2014-03-01T02:43:26Z
dc.date.available	2014-03-01T02:43:26Z
dc.date.issued	2005	en
dc.identifier.issn	0967-0645	en
dc.identifier.uri	https://dspace.lib.ntua.gr/xmlui/handle/123456789/31415
dc.subject	Deep Water	en
dc.subject	Fluid Mechanics	en
dc.subject	Probability Density	en
dc.subject	Spectrum	en
dc.subject	Wave Breaking	en
dc.subject	Weak Dependence	en
dc.subject.classification	Oceanography	en
dc.subject.other	Bandwidth	en
dc.subject.other	Fluid mechanics	en
dc.subject.other	Frequencies	en
dc.subject.other	Probability density function	en
dc.subject.other	Water waves	en
dc.subject.other	Breaking waves	en
dc.subject.other	Deep waters	en
dc.subject.other	Spectrum bandwidth	en
dc.subject.other	Wave frequencies	en
dc.subject.other	Water	en
dc.subject.other	breaking wave	en
dc.subject.other	deep water	en
dc.subject.other	wave action	en
dc.title	On the probability of wave breaking in deep waters	en
heal.type	conferenceItem	en
heal.identifier.primary	10.1016/j.dsr2.2005.01.009	en
heal.identifier.secondary	http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.dsr2.2005.01.009	en
heal.language	English	en
heal.publicationDate	2005	en
heal.abstract	An analytical expression for the spectral probability density p(B)(Sigma) of breaking waves in deep water, with or without swell, is derived on the basis of a joint distribution of wave frequencies and amplitudes, and a modified Banner and Phillips [1974. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 66, 625-640] breaking criterion. The joint probability density and the derived marginal amplitude, frequency and conditional densities, when normalized properly, all show (within the proper spectral bandwidth range) similarities with other pertinent distributions. The derived breaking probability is found to depend on the spectrum bandwidth, theta, and consequently on the significant slope, , and/or the wave age, c(p)/u() and is not restricted to narrow-band seas. The variation of breaking probability, with, at the normalized spectral peak frequency 2:p has no direct dependence on c(p)/u(), whereas its counterpart variations at frequencies 2 Sigma(p), and 2.5 Sigma(p) both show weak dependence on the latter parameter for large values of wave age (representing mature wave fields), in accord with field observations. An overall (average) breaking probability, B, characterizing the wave field (locally) also is derived and compared with counterpart-published expressions, and their similarities and differences are properly discussed. (c) 2005 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.	en
heal.publisher	PERGAMON-ELSEVIER SCIENCE LTD	en
heal.journalName	Deep-Sea Research Part II: Topical Studies in Oceanography	en
dc.identifier.doi	10.1016/j.dsr2.2005.01.009	en
dc.identifier.isi	ISI:000230417700012	en
dc.identifier.volume	52	en
dc.identifier.issue	9-10 SPEC. ISS.	en
dc.identifier.spage	1246	en
dc.identifier.epage	1269	en