Comparison of extraction methods for the analysis of natural dyes in historical textiles by high-performance liquid chromatography

Valianou, L; Karapanagiotis, I; Chryssoulakis, Y

dc.contributor.author	Valianou, L	en
dc.contributor.author	Karapanagiotis, I	en
dc.contributor.author	Chryssoulakis, Y	en
dc.date.accessioned	2014-03-01T02:46:04Z
dc.date.available	2014-03-01T02:46:04Z
dc.date.issued	2009	en
dc.identifier.issn	1618-2642	en
dc.identifier.uri	https://dspace.lib.ntua.gr/xmlui/handle/123456789/32517
dc.subject	Archaeometry	en
dc.subject	Fine arts	en
dc.subject	HPLC	en
dc.subject	Natural products	en
dc.subject	Sampling	en
dc.subject.classification	Biochemical Research Methods	en
dc.subject.classification	Chemistry, Analytical	en
dc.subject.other	Acid treatments	en
dc.subject.other	Archaeometry	en
dc.subject.other	Bisdemethoxycurcumin	en
dc.subject.other	Carminic acid	en
dc.subject.other	Cotinus coggygria	en
dc.subject.other	Curcuma longa	en
dc.subject.other	Curcumin	en
dc.subject.other	Curcuminoids	en
dc.subject.other	Demethoxycurcumin	en
dc.subject.other	Diode array detectors	en
dc.subject.other	Extraction method	en
dc.subject.other	Extraction yield	en
dc.subject.other	Fine arts	en
dc.subject.other	Flavonoid glycosides	en
dc.subject.other	HPLC	en
dc.subject.other	HPLC-DAD	en
dc.subject.other	Indirubin	en
dc.subject.other	Natural dye	en
dc.subject.other	Natural products	en
dc.subject.other	Oxalic Acid	en
dc.subject.other	Peak area	en
dc.subject.other	Tinctoria	en
dc.subject.other	Chromatographic analysis	en
dc.subject.other	Chromatography	en
dc.subject.other	Derivatives	en
dc.subject.other	Dimethyl sulfoxide	en
dc.subject.other	Dyes	en
dc.subject.other	Fabrics	en
dc.subject.other	High performance liquid chromatography	en
dc.subject.other	High pressure liquid chromatography	en
dc.subject.other	Liquids	en
dc.subject.other	Mass spectrometry	en
dc.subject.other	Signal to noise ratio	en
dc.subject.other	Silk	en
dc.subject.other	Substrates	en
dc.subject.other	Sugars	en
dc.subject.other	Wool	en
dc.subject.other	Wool fibers	en
dc.subject.other	Yarn	en
dc.subject.other	Extraction	en
dc.subject.other	Cotinus coggygria	en
dc.subject.other	Curcuma longa	en
dc.subject.other	Dactylopius coccus	en
dc.subject.other	Isatis	en
dc.subject.other	Isatis tinctoria	en
dc.subject.other	Reseda luteola	en
dc.subject.other	Rubia	en
dc.subject.other	Rubia tinctorum	en
dc.title	Comparison of extraction methods for the analysis of natural dyes in historical textiles by high-performance liquid chromatography	en
heal.type	conferenceItem	en
heal.identifier.primary	10.1007/s00216-009-3137-6	en
heal.identifier.secondary	http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s00216-009-3137-6	en
heal.language	English	en
heal.publicationDate	2009	en
heal.abstract	Different methods for the extraction of Dactylopius coccus Costa, Rubia tinctorum L., Isatis tinctoria L., Reseda luteola L., Curcuma longa L. and Cotinus coggygria Scop. from wool fibres are investigated using high-performance liquid chromatography with diode array detector (HPLC-DAD). The efficiencies of five extraction methods which include the use of HCl (widely used extraction method), citric acid, oxalic acid, TFA and a combination of HCOOH and EDTA are compared on the basis of the (a) number, (b) relative quantities, measured as HPLC peak areas and (c) signal-to-noise ratios (S/N) of the compounds extracted from the wool substrates. Flavonoid glycosides and curcuminoids contained in R. luteola L. and C. longa L., respectively, according to liquid chromatography with mass spectrometry (LC-MS) identifications, are not detected after treating the fibres with HCl. All the other milder methods are successful in extracting these compounds. Experiments are performed using HPLC-DAD to compare the HPLC peak areas and the S/N of the following extracted compounds: indigotin, indirubin, curcumin, demethoxycurcumin, bisdemethoxycurcumin, fisetin, sulfuretin, luteolin, luteolin-7-O-glucoside, apigenin, carminic acid, alizarin, puruprin and rubiadin. It is shown that the TFA method provides overall the best results as it gives elevated extraction yields except for fisetin, luteolin, apigenin and luteolin-7-O-glucoside and highest S/N except for fisetin and luteolin-7-O-glucoside. It is noteworthy that treatment of the fibres with the typical HCl extraction method results overall in very low S/N. The TFA method is selected for further studies, as follows. First, it is applied on silk dyed samples and compared with the HCl method. The same relative differences of the TFA and HCl methods observed for the wool dyed samples are reported for the silk dyed samples too, except for rubiadin, luteolin and apigenin. Thus, in most cases, the nature of the substrate (wool or silk) appears to have negligible effects on the relative difference of the two extraction methods. Second, the selected TFA method is applied to treat wool and silk historical samples extracted from textiles of the Mamluk period, resulting in the identification of several colouring compounds. In all extraction methods mentioned above, DMSO is used to dissolve the dyes, after acid treatment. © 2009 Springer-Verlag.	en
heal.publisher	SPRINGER HEIDELBERG	en
heal.journalName	Analytical and Bioanalytical Chemistry	en
dc.identifier.doi	10.1007/s00216-009-3137-6	en
dc.identifier.isi	ISI:000272017000025	en
dc.identifier.volume	395	en
dc.identifier.issue	7	en
dc.identifier.spage	2175	en
dc.identifier.epage	2189	en