heal.abstract |
In the present work a complete phase-resolving wave model is coupled with an iterative solver of the mean-flow equations, permitting an accurate calculation of wave-induced set-up in intermediate and shallow water environments with possibly steep bathymetric variations. The wave model is based on the consistent coupled-mode system for the propagation of water waves in variable bathymetry regions, developed by Athanassoulis & Belibassakis (1999) and extended to 3D by Belibassakis et al (2001). This model improves the predictions of the mild-slope equation(s), permitting accurate treatment of wave propagation in regions with steep bottom slope and/or large curvature. In addition, it supports the correct calculation of wave velocity up to the bottom boundary. The coupled-mode model has been further extended to include the effects of energy dissipation from bottom friction and wave breaking, which are important for the accurate calculation of radiation stresses on decreasing depth. Furthermore, it has been used in conjunction with the mean flow equations to predict wave-induced set up and flow in closed and open domains. Finally, the resulting phase-averaged mean-pressure has been applied to calculate the induced groundwater circulation on a permeable beach, in the set-up region. Under the assumption that the groundwater flow is in the Darcy law regime, in the case of a stationary mean flow, the porous flow velocity can be obtained in terms of the pressure gradient. In this case, Massel (2001), the problem concerning groundwater circulation is governed by the Laplace's equation on the pressure, forced by Dirichlet data specified by the excess pressure on the sea bottom that is induced by the mean flow. Copyright © 2007 by The International Society of Offshore and Polar Engineers(ISOPE). |
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