Infragravity waves induced by short-wave groups in coastal regions characterized by general bottom topography

Belibassakis, KA

dc.contributor.author	Belibassakis, KA	en
dc.date.accessioned	2014-03-01T02:53:19Z
dc.date.available	2014-03-01T02:53:19Z
dc.date.issued	2011	en
dc.identifier.uri	https://dspace.lib.ntua.gr/xmlui/handle/123456789/36235
dc.subject.other	Bottom friction	en
dc.subject.other	Bottom topography	en
dc.subject.other	Coastal regions	en
dc.subject.other	General bathymetry	en
dc.subject.other	Infragravity waves	en
dc.subject.other	Long wave equations	en
dc.subject.other	Mooring system	en
dc.subject.other	Nearshores	en
dc.subject.other	Radiation stress	en
dc.subject.other	Set-down	en
dc.subject.other	Short waves	en
dc.subject.other	Short-wave groups	en
dc.subject.other	Sloping bottom	en
dc.subject.other	Spatial evolution	en
dc.subject.other	Subharmonics	en
dc.subject.other	Surf zones	en
dc.subject.other	Variable bathymetry	en
dc.subject.other	Wave height decay	en
dc.subject.other	Arctic engineering	en
dc.subject.other	Bathymetry	en
dc.subject.other	Coastal zones	en
dc.subject.other	Energy transfer	en
dc.subject.other	Gravity waves	en
dc.subject.other	Ocean engineering	en
dc.subject.other	Wave energy conversion	en
dc.subject.other	Wave equations	en
dc.subject.other	Water waves	en
dc.title	Infragravity waves induced by short-wave groups in coastal regions characterized by general bottom topography	en
heal.type	conferenceItem	en
heal.identifier.primary	10.1115/OMAE2011-49280	en
heal.identifier.secondary	http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/OMAE2011-49280	en
heal.publicationDate	2011	en
heal.abstract	The free long-wave generation by short-wave groups over a sloping bottom is studied both experimentally and theoretically by various authors showing important results concerning the modelling of energy transfer from the short waves to subharmonics. In the present work, the coupled-mode model developed by Athanassoulis & Belibassakis (1999) for the propagation of water waves over variable bathymetry regions, as generalized to include dissipation due to bottom friction and breaking effects, is applied to calculate the spatial evolution of short-wave groups propagating over a shoaling area, characterized by general bottom topography. Following Schäffer (1993), the present model is appropriately modified in the surf zone in order to destroy the short-wave modulation, keeping the wave height decay in proportion to the local waterdepth, and is then used to calculate radiation stresses associated with shoaling and breaking of short-wave groups in the area of general bathymetry and in the surf zone. Subsequently, the system of long wave equations, corresponding to zero (setdown/ set-up) and first few harmonics, forced by the radiation stresses, is numerically solved. Results are presented showing that the present model provides reasonable predictions, supporting the study of infragravity waves induced by shortwave groups and their effects on harbors and mooring systems of large vessel operating in nearshore/coastal regions. Copyright © 2011 by ASME.	en
heal.journalName	Proceedings of the International Conference on Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering - OMAE	en
dc.identifier.doi	10.1115/OMAE2011-49280	en
dc.identifier.volume	6	en
dc.identifier.spage	199	en
dc.identifier.epage	206	en